Thứ Ba, 8 tháng 12, 2015

Wine Lover's Guide to Italy's Prosecco Region



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Thanks in part to the recession, economical Americans began switching from Champagne to Prosecco, a more affordable alternative with the same effervescence and celebratory spirit, and never looked back. Its fresh, light quality makes it easy to enjoy with any cuisine (even brunch). While many visitors look forward to the bubbling vino offered throughout Italy, we suggest visiting the countryside where it comes from.
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Although a day trip (via tour or hired driver) to the Prosecco region is feasible from Venice, it’s worthy of its own long weekend getaway. We recommend renting a car so you can visit multiple towns and drive out to the vineyards. However, you can also take the train to visit the provinces of Veneto and purchase a Eurail pass to visit multiple destinations.

After a week of tastings, we determined that you truly can’t go wrong with Prosecco, Prosecco Superiore, Brut, Dry, or Extra Dry and that half the fun comes from invoking the spirit of the winemaker, the Italian culture, and the ambiance of the sun-soaked vineyards while you imbibe. In addition to popping bottles, we also uncovered an array of sights to see in between vineyard visits, from UNESCO World Heritage Sites to Michelin-starred restaurants to charming accommodations. Here are four of our favorite provinces and recommendations for each.
VENICE
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Start your journey in Venice, part of the Prosecco region. With waterways threading the entire city, no other place in the world rivals its unique charm.

What to Do: A romantic ride along its canals, a trip to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and a visit to San Marco Square after dark are absolute musts while you’re in town. Don’t miss a trip toEnoiteca Mascareta for fabulous wine curated by the eccentric owner, Mauro Lorenzon.

Where to Stay: Converted to a hotel in 1908, Hotel Saturnia has been owned by the same family for more than a century. Just steps from San Marco Square, it’s the perfect blend of ancient Venetian style and modern convenience. If you’re looking for a design hotel, check out the Saturnia’s sister property, Ca Pisani, which boasts contemporary elegance in the heart of the art district. If you’re looking to stay outside the hustle and bustle, the Hilton Molino Stucky Venice is a quick ferry ride from San Marco Square. The Hilton offers killer views of the Venice skyline and a rooftop pool where guests can enjoy them.

Where to Eat: If you’re looking for a romantic meal in an alfresco garden, try La Caravella or check out De Pisis for a fancy dinner along the canal. For the perfect traditional Venetian cuisine, check out Al Covo. For outstanding pizza, stop by Rosso Pomodoro. Save room for gelato at the famousLa Boutique del Gelato (Salizzada San Lio; +39 041 522 3283).



Vineyard to Visit: Thirty-five minutes from Venice proper lies Venissa Wine Resort (on the minor island of Mazzorbo). Sample the only wine in the world made from the native Venetian Dorona grape. Less than 5,000 bottles are produced per year, and each one is bottled in limited edition Murano glass bottles finished with a gold leaf, which pays homage to the grape variety, which means “gilded.” Guests can tour the vineyard, dine at its Michelin-starred restaurant or more casualosteria, and spend the night at the resort.
VICENZA



Amidst a city surrounded by fortified walls lies a medieval landscape created by famed architect, Andrea Palladio. Vicenza’s unique architecture led to the town’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stroll through Piazza dei Signori at the heart of the city to find Vicenza’s most famous landmarks: the Basilica Palladiana (the medieval courts) and the Torre di Piazza. Enjoy drinks on La Terrazza di Vicenza for sweeping views of the city.

Where to Stay: Villa Michelangelo is nestled in the Vicenza countryside as a haven for those in search of peace and quiet. Guests are spoiled with luxurious, individually decorated rooms, views overlooking a lush green valley, and a pool among olive trees. Sign up for a class with the chef for the perfect souvenir: the skill of Italian cooking.



Where to Eat: After a long drive up a winding hill you’ll reach Spinechile, the brainchild of Michelin-starred chef Corrado Fasolato and his wife Paola. Spinechile is a culinary adventure you’ll never forget, with the some of the most imaginative dishes you’ll ever have.



Vineyard to Visit: Take a tour of Zonin1821’s wine cellar and visit the museum to learn about the history of the vineyard through the Zonin family’s journey. Also, check out the unique stamp collection dedicated exclusively to vines and wines. End your visit with a wine tasting with enthusiastic sommelier, Gabriele, who will guide you on a passionate journey through Prosecco’s many flavors and sensations.
TREVISO



Only twenty miles north of Venice lies the charming province of Treviso. Although its city center bears a resemblance to Venice, with its meandering canals and breathtaking churches, it’s missing one thing: the crowds. This tranquil town, where water wheels idly turn and locals leisurely amble its narrow, cobbled streets, offers a quiet place to enjoy life as the Italians do. Your time here is best spent watching the streams gush by as you sample a glass of Prosecco and nibble on traditional Veneto cuisine at local restaurants and osterie.

What to Do: Visit the Museum of Antonio Canova. Canova was once the finest sculptor in the world, and his work is exhibited worldwide in museums like the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Temple of Canova, a grand structure across the road where Canova is laid to rest, is also a must see. Sample Italy’s national beverage at Castagner Italian Distillery, one of the finest grappa producers in Italy. But don’t expect your typical “firewater.” Owner and master distiller, Roberto Castagner, creates innovative grappa for discerning consumers.



Where to Stay: If you’re looking for luxury, check out Hotel Villa Cipriani, once home to Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning. The hotel is located in the small, affluent town of Asolo, known for its stunning mountainous views and its seasonal garden. If you’re looking to stay closer to the grapes, you can’t go wrong with Borgoluce’s farmhouse. Wander the green landscape of meadows, woods, and vineyards, interrupted only by the property’s great castle. Cool off in the bioorganic swimming pool that looks like a small lake and is carefully curated with plants handpicked to purify the water.



Where to Eat: Sample charcuterie, cheeses, and fresh handmade sandwiches at Dai Naneti, a traditional osteria filled with locals of all ages. For a lovely meal along the canals, check out Odeon alla Colonna and try their coffee pasta for a rush. If you’re looking for fancy fare, head to the small town of Oderzo and try Gellius, housed in a prison from the Middle Ages. During construction of the restaurant, Roman and Byzantine ruins were unearthed, and after three years of restoration, you can now dine among priceless archeological remains in the Michelin-starred restaurant.

Vineyards to Visit: Book a guided tour at Villa Marcello, located in the foothills of the Veneto Prealps. Here, you can visit the cellars, sample the Prosecco, and learn about its history in a small museum dedicated to the estate’s evolution. Borgoluce is another family-owned vineyard, and its commitment to environmental responsibility is evident in its sustainable farming techniques. Visit its osteria or Borgoluce Frasca where you can enjoy dishes made with seasonal products from its farm.
PADUA



Art, spirituality, and science coalesce in Padua. It is home to the first botanic garden in the world (now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and Italy’s second oldest university (where Galileo used to teach).

What to See: Book tickets at least a few weeks in advance for the Scrovegni Chapel, a UNESCO site and Padua’s version of the Sistine Chapel. Giotto’s frescos are truly artistic masterpieces. A visit here is guaranteed to be a trip highlight. The Basilica of St. Anthony nearby, burial place of St. Anthony and a major pilgrimage site, is also worth a stop.

Where to Stay: Hotel Villa Goetzen is a charming, family-run hotel with a hospitable atmosphere and simple, yet lovely accommodations.

Where to Eat: For a romantic evening, try Belle Parti in the historical heart of Padua, inside the aristocratic Prosdocimi Palace.

Katie Lara is a freelance travel journalist and video host based in New York City. In addition to Fodor's, her writing and photographs have appeared in U.S. News and World Report, The Huffington Post, Forbes, and Fox News. Keep up with Katie's adventures on her travel blog Travelingpanties, Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook.


Katie Lara

Wine Lover’s Guide to Galicia, Spain



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The lush, rain-soaked region of northwest Spain known as Galicia has been famous for centuries as the final stop for Christian pilgrims hiking the Camino de Santiago, a 500-mile route starting in the Pyrenees and ending at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St. James are buried. Over the last two decades, however, different kinds of pilgrims make the journey here: wine lovers hunting for heady surprises in the ancient grape varietals found in the open vineyards of Galicia’s lower estuaries, known as Rías Baixas.
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Winemaking in Galicia dates back 2,000 years to the time of Roman occupation, when it was exported to England via galleon. However, Rías Baixas was not formally established as a Denomination of Origin for winegrowers until 1988, just after Spain joined the European Union. Recognition did not come easily for the regional specialty—the aromatic, white Albariño—since Spain is a country generally associated with the color red. Yet twenty years later, Albariño’s once cult-like status seems to have skyrocketed largely due to its popularity with expert American sommeliers. Today, there are hundreds of barrels of white vintages produced from the nearly 9,000 acres of grapes scattered throughout the subzones in Rías Baixas. Here’s our guide to exploring the best of the region.
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA


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The logical launching pad for your winetasting tour is the buzzing town of Santiago de Compostelawith its iconic Baroque cathedral. It’s not uncommon to see hikers or cyclists toasting the completion of “El Camino” at a wine bar along the city’s narrow pedestrian streets or to hear buskers playing bagpipes in Plaza Obradoiro, the main square, in homage to their Celtic roots.

Where to Eat: Culinary wizards Iago Pazos and Marcos Cerqueiro have transformed six stalls from the local farmers’ market into a tiny, ultra-modern eatery called Abastos 2.0. Sourced exclusively from the mercado, tapas here change daily, with inventive treats like mussels seasoned with crumbled pumpkin seed, grilled octopus with kale, and percebes (steamed barnacles), each served with Galician wines to match.

Where to Stay: Also known as Hostal dos Reis Católicos, the Parador de Santiago de Compostela, on the Plaza Obradoiro, is widely considered to be the oldest hotel in the world. Originally a hospital founded in 1499, the building is rife with historic touches, including creaky wooden doors with giant, old-style keys.
VAL DO SALNÉS SUBZONE



Set in the picturesque village of Cambados, Val do Salnés is the oldest, largest, and most productive subzone of Rías Baixas, with vineyards that hug the Atlantic coastline, granitic soils, and temperatures averaging 55º F.

Vineyards to Visit: Named after a legendary Galician troubadour, Martin Códax has flourished since its founding in 1986 by fifty families led by ninth generation winemaker Luciano Amoedo. Today, its wines are made from the harvest of more than 2,400 separate plots and imported by Gallo.

Nearby, the fourteenth-century family estate winery Pazo Señorans looks like it was lifted straight from the set of Under the Tuscan Sun. Winemaker Ana Quintela oversees the grape selection, while mother-daughter team Victoria and Marisol Bueno keep a close watch.

Last but most definitely not least, there’s Pazo Baión. Once owned by a Spanish drug lord, then seized by the government and turned into a winery by the collective Condes de Albarei, this sprawling stone compound in the Galician countryside boasts fifty-five acres of forty-year-old vines. The most promising bottle here is the namesake Pazo Baión Albariño with its clean taste and citrus and almond notes. (Five percent of all profits here are pledged toward fighting drug addiction.)

Where to Eat: Superb service, ridiculously fresh seafood, and unique presentation will win you over at upscale Eirado da Lena in the main square of Pontevedra. Try the finely sliced scallops served on sea stones.

Where to Stay: A sixteenth-century manor house, Parador de Pontevedra (Casa del Baron) offers a central location in the heart of the old quarter, which makes a convenient base for exploring the various subzones of Rías Baixas. Peppered with antique portraits and mirrors, the building looks out onto a lovely little rose garden.
O ROSAL SUBZONE



Located just below the town of Baiona near the Miño River, O Rosal is the southernmost subzone in Rías Baixas, known not only for its Albariño but also for Loureira and other varietals.

Vineyards to Visit: Terras Gauda, which is within walking distance of Portugal, is one of the most interesting wineries in Rías Baixas. Winemaker Emilio Rodriguez is keen on producing wines from the unusual Caino Blanco, a late ripening grape that yields the delicious, peppery La Mar, a refreshing alternative to the traditional Albariño.

At Santiago Ruiz, Rosa Ruiz welcomes you into her ancestral home, a seventeenth-century estate surrounded by trellised vines. The highly drinkable namesake wine here is made from an assortment of grapes, and its label bears a hand-drawn map made for guests of Rosa’s sister Isabel’s wedding years ago.

Wind down your day at Adegas Valminor, where you can sample winemaker Christina Mantilla’s Torroxal “O Rosal” Tinto, a rare, indigenous red blend that Mantilla rescued from obscurity.

Where to Eat: The limited yet memorable menu at La Casa de Las 5 Puertas, just a five-minute walk from Parador de Pontevedra, includes Galician specialties like potato omelets and fried eggs served with wild mushrooms.
CONDADO DO TEA SUBZONE



This mountainous subzone with a slightly warmer climate and an abrupt landscape along the right bank of the Miño River is crossed by the Tea River from north to south.

Vineyards to Visit: Pontevedra native Jose Limeres established a handful of vineyards throughout Rías Baixas in the 1980s when he was looking for reliable wines to pair with the cuisine in his Madrilenian restaurants. Now the flagship winery of the group, Bodegas La Val, uses only its own grapes to make mainly 100 percent Albariño wines, but it also offers a three-grape traditional blend made from Albariño, Loureira, and Treixadura.

Pazo San Mauro is another Spanish estate that is so elaborately old-world that it looks like it was airlifted out of a Merchant Ivory film. Complete with a chapel built in 1582, the winery was purchased in 2003 by a well-to-do family from Rioja who has invested heavily in the restoration of the estate’s ancient buildings and the construction of a new wine cellar.

Finally, at Senorio de Rubios, you’ll welcome red on your lips after so much white. Sip the Senorio de Rubios Souson, a full, fruity red with the taste of tangy wild berries.

Where to Eat: La Ultramar (Rúa Padre Amoedo Carballo, 3; +34 986 85 72 66), with its open kitchen showcasing the culinary skill of Michelin-starred chef Pepe Vieira, makes for a brilliant finale to a winetasting tour of Rías Baixas. The airy, Scandinavian-style setting provides an ideal backdrop for Galician dishes with a modern twist, such as the roast beef tacos and sea bass ceviche.

Pair your tapas with wines by Paco & Lola, a Val do Salnés winery that produces a crisp Albariño that has quickly become one of the most popular wines in Spain. The winery itself boasts that the stars at the Los Angeles premiere of Vicky Cristina Barcelona sipped Paco & Lola—not bad for a wine that has waited thousands of years for its moment in the spotlight.

How to Spend a Perfect Week in Haiti




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Forget everything you think you know about Haiti, and disregard any disturbing images you may have seen in the news. This resilient Caribbean nation is ready for curious, open-minded travelers to once again experience its vibrant Creole culture and stunning natural beauty.
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Five years after a devastating 7.0-magnitude earthquake, Haiti is striving to rebuild by redeveloping its tourism industry. (Though often disregarded as a destination, this country was formerly a Caribbean hot spot with the moniker “The Pearl of the Antilles” during its heyday in the 1950s—the Clintons even honeymooned here in 1975.) As the country works to put itself back on travelers’ radar, now is the perfect time to see the sides of Haiti that are often overlooked: its undeveloped beaches; fascinating, centuries-old forts; and unique, Vodou-infused art.

From joining in the revelry at Carnival in Jacmel to basking in the breathtaking Bassin Bleu waterfalls, Haiti is full of unforgettable experiences for the intrepid traveler. But the most unexpected moments are the ones that involve learning about life in Haiti, in all its complicated ways, straight from the warm and resilient people who call it home.

For first-timers in Haiti, these are the three destinations you must visit: lively capital Port-au-Prince, artsy beach town Jacmel, and historic port city Cap-Haitien (shown above). But there’s also an endless number of local people you need to meet to really get to the know “the real Haiti,” so don’t be surprised if one week here isn’t enough.
EXPERIENCE HAITI’S LIVING HISTORY IN PORT-AU-PRINCE
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Make your home base for your Haiti adventure Port-au-Prince; while chaotic and crowded, this is the center of Haiti’s complicated history and the best place for seeing it fuse with everyday life.

Local tour guide Jean Cyril Pressoir of Tour Haiti, a father-son duo that's been in business for eleven years arranging personalized tailor-made tours for the gamut from celebrities to budget travelers, will take you to all the requisite sights, from the remains of the National Palace to the Unknown Maroon statue. Learn about Haiti’s turbulent past by visiting the Musée du Panthéon National, where you’ll get a guided tour through this museum of Haitian history. Don’t miss the gallery wing, where there’s a rotating monthly display showcasing Haiti’s most influential artists.

Pick up some souvenirs at the Iron Market (Marché en Fer), the symbolic heart of commerce in Port-au-Prince that was one of the first buildings rebuilt one year after the devastating earthquake and even redesigned with solar panels. Meander through its overwhelming maze of vendors selling everything from dried starfish to beguiling Vodou art.

For something truly unique to bring back from Haiti, head to Port-au-Prince’s iron-working community of Croix-des-Bouquets, where the traditional Haitian metalwork was born in the early 1950s. In this well-maintained, bougainvillea-lined neighborhood, you’ll be able to see (and hear) the 100 or more talented metalwork artists pounding intricate details out of steel drums in their workshops and stores.



Rethink art and sculpture at the artist community of Atis Rezistans, where contemporary Haitian artists are creating new life out of the rubble: car parts, broken metal, old shoes, computer keyboards, discarded dolls, and, yes, even human skulls. Make sure you go here with Tour Haiti so you’ll get personal introductions to the eccentric “sculptors of Grand Rue,” as they are known in the art worlds around the globe.

After a long day trekking through Port-au-Prince, you might be in the market for more comfortable footwear. Grab a new pair of shoes and a tour of Rebuild Globally, an inspiring non-profit that provides jobs and education for Haitians, primarily women. See how the stylish Deux Mains sandalsare designed and hand made out of old tires and local leather and leave with a feel-good and wearable memento from Haiti.

Take a break from sightseeing and enjoy an aperitif (fried plantains and rhum punch are our go-to here) at the storied Hotel Oloffson. This historic gingerbread hotel is owned by Haitian-American Richard A. Morse who also doubles as lead man for R.A.M., a fifteen-member Rara band that is famous for drawing locals, NGOs, aid workers, and tourists alike to sweat it out together on the dance floor to “Vodou Rock” on Thursdays night.

Where to Stay: The recently opened Marriott in Port-au-Prince offers a new level of luxury for travelers in Port-au-Prince while still sourcing everything from produce to bath products directly from local businesses. You’ll feel like you’re spending a night at a stylish art gallery with the 1500 pieces of Haitian art, curated by renowned Haitian artist Philippe Dodard, appearing throughout the hotel.
TAKE IN JACMEL’S SEASIDE ARTS AND ADVENTURES



Once you have experienced the intensity of everyday life in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be craving a slower pace and a refreshing dip in the Caribbean Sea. Just a few hours drive from congested Port-au-Prince is Jacmel, a sleepy seaside town known for its distinctive and imaginative art scene. If you’re not lucky enough to visit Jacmel during its annual Carnival celebration, you can still see thepapier-mâché masks that are created for the last hurrah before Lent being made year-round at artists’ studios.

After strolling through the colorful colonial streets, rest your feet and get the best rhum sour of your life at Hotel Florita, a turn-of-the-century coffee-plantation home that was converted into a hotel in 1999. Filled with intriguing local art, this historic hotel’s restaurant and bar is a popular meeting spot for tourists and locals alike.



A visit to Jacmel, or Haiti for that matter, wouldn’t be complete without seeing one of the most hidden gems in Haiti, Bassin Bleu, an oasis of turquoise-blue pools and cascades nestled in the town’s lush hills. After a bumpy ride through palm-tree lined dirt roads and a short hike, you’ll be rendered speechless when you finally arrive at Bassin Bleu’s highest waterfall that’s sure to have a few local boys taking jaw-dropping jumps into the shimmering swimming hole below.

If jumping off rocks into Bassin Bleu isn’t enough of an adrenaline rush for you, take a surf lesson with Surf Haiti, the first surf school in Haiti started at Kabik Beach. Founded after the earthquake by an American doctor that wanted to share his passion of surfing with young Haitians and help inspire a new tourism market, Surf Haiti is now run by two French surfers who also manage an accompanying treehouse-inspired guesthouse.

Whether you attempt surfing or not, watch the sun set at Kabik’s Le Reference, a tiny beach hut that serves fresh-caught fish, conch, and lobster. You won’t mind how long it takes your fresh fish to be grilled (hint: order before you’re ravished with hunger) with lantern-lit dining tables just steps from the breaking waves.

Where to Stay: Just outside of downtown Jacmel is Hotel Cyvadier Plage, a seaside hotel with adequate rooms, but an incredible view from its perch above a glittering blue-green cove that calls for sunset dips.
EXPLORE HAITI’S OPULENT PAST IN CAP-HAITIEN



Once you have toured Port-au-Prince, dive deeper into Haiti’s past with a visit to Cap-Haitien, a colonial port city on the north coast that’s brimming with history.

After you hop off the quick 25-minute flight from Port-au-Prince and check into your hotel, head straight for Cap-Haitien’s most popular attraction, Citadelle Laferrière. This imposing fortress was built in the early 1800s atop a mountain seventeen miles south of Cap-Haitien in the town of Milot. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Citadelle Laferrière is one of the largest fortresses in the Americas, and the biggest in the Caribbean.

Whether you take a donkey ride or climb up the six-mile-long steep road that leads to the fortress, you’ll have earned the breathtaking view at the top. Take a moment to marvel at the magnificence of a fortress that took 20,000 men fifteen years to build and that houses over 365 cannons.

Close to the Citadelle lies another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the remains of Sans Souci Palace, once considered the “Versailles of the Caribbean.” The opulent residence of former slave Henri Christophe, who was a central figure in the Haitian revolution that succeeded in gaining independence from France in the early 1800s. The self-proclaimed king of Haiti’s palace was damaged and abandoned after an earthquake in 1842, but now serves as an important reminder of the nation’s prosperous past.

Where to Stay: Family-run Habitation des Lauriers is a charming, 22-room boutique hotel overlooking the Cap-Haitien Bay that’s in a convenient location for exploring the town. Or if you want to combine your history tour with some beach time, stay at Cormier Plage, a resort that’s just outside Cap-Haitien on a secluded palm-tree lined golden beach.
WANT TO EXPLORE HAITI WITH A GROUP?

If you want the security of traveling with a group and a knowledgeable local guide, G Adventures is a pioneering sustainable adventure travel company that began offering ten-day trips to Haiti in 2015.

English in Mind, a Haitian-led adult language school in Port-au-Prince, offers ten-day volunteer trips throughout the year that include teaching, light service work, and visits to Haiti’s beautiful beaches and mountains.

Kathleen Rellihan is a travel writer who first got hooked on Haiti while volunteering with English in Mind. Now you’ll find Kathleen in Haiti several times a year hiking to waterfalls, attempting to learn jokes in Kreyol, and getting her fried plantain/rhum sour fix. Follow Kathleen on Twitter andInstagram.

Fall 2015 Guide to Paris




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A cultural cornucopia awaits visitors to Paris this fall, especially for travelers looking for something a little off the beaten path. Two top-tier museums will reopen after multi-year renovations as part of an exciting new season of festivals, top-notch art exhibitions, and the city's leading food and wine events. There's plenty to inspire a last-minute trip if you haven't booked already!
NEW MUSEUMS


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Esteemed as much for research and scholarship as for its stupendous collections, the Musée de l'Homme—in the iconic Palais de Chaillot—reopens on October 17 after a six-year total overhaul. New state-of-the-art displays focus on the question, "What does it means to be human?" Exhibitions are filled with the museum's priceless artifacts, including everything from the 20,000-year-old Venus of Lespugue to Descartes' skull. There's something fascinating for all ages here, plus an enticing restaurant and a gift shop.


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This beautiful new Musée de Parfum Paris (free admission) is dedicated to the art and history of perfume making. Opened by the Costa family, founders of the renowned Grasse-based perfumer Fragonard, the museum tells the story of French perfume through historic objects and the family's own vast collection of art objects, vials and bottles, distilleries, and more, many exhibited for the first time. You'll want to linger in the museum shop where knowledgeable guides offer samples to help you find the perfect fragrance.
NOT-TO-MISS EXHIBITIONS



A pioneer in surrealist art and a friend of Picasso and Braque, Wifredo Lam is considered one of the leading lights of modernist painting. He was influenced by surrealism, magical realism, modernism, postmodernism, and Afro-Cuban symbolism, and an exhibition of his work at the Centre Pompidou(September 30–February 15) takes a welcome new look at this artist who transcended cultural boundaries.

The Grand Palais is hosting the first retrospective (September 23–January 11 devoted to the extraordinary artist Elisabeth Louis Vigée le Brun, who began her career in the courts of Louis XV, where she painted his fashionable wife, Marie Antoinette, and his children. Vigée le Brun triumphed over the limitations of a modest background and the usual constraints of her gender to become one of the most accomplished and celebrated portraitists of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Paris.

It's an excellent time to discover, or rediscover, one of Paris's hidden gems. Now through February 14, the superb Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature features two extraordinary exhibitions. In one, there are twenty canvases by the American painter Walton Ford (created for the exhibition) that play on the tradition of academic zoological painting with irony, humor, and the artist's singular vision. In the other, wildlife photographer George Shiras presents a sublime and magical world of animal life at at night.
ARTS FESTIVALS

A hotly anticipated fall event, each year the Festival d'Automne assembles a world-class roster of performers in contemporary dance, theater, performance, art, cinema, and music in venues in and around Paris. There's everything from jazz performances by La Monte Young in the soaring Saint-Eustache church to the Trisha Brown dance company performing at the National Theatre de Chaillot. Find a detailed calendar of events and ticketing online.

Gathering all the top names in contemporary art, this year's FIAC (Foire Internationale d'Art Contemporaine) runs from October 21–25 at the Grand Palais and several other venues around town including the Tuilerie Gardens, Place Vendôme, and the Jardin des Plantes. The festival also features a schedule of performances, films, and lectures.
FOOD FESTIVALS

Each fall, Paris hosts a roster of irresistible events around food and wine. This city is the world epicenter of chocolate, and the Salon du Chocolat (October 28–November 1) presents and awards the world's greatest chocolatiers. The yearly Fêtes des Vendanges de Montmartre (November 7–11), a five-day blowout party celebrating the grape harvest at Paris's last producing vineyards on the heights of Montmartre, features music, dancing, children's events, beekeeping and winemaking classes, fireworks, tastings and the introduction of the 2014 cuvee. And then, for four glorious days, wine lovers can taste to their hearts content the great appellations from every corner of France, including bio and natural wines, at the Paris edition of the Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendents (November 26–30). A small admission price gets you a tasting glass and free reign of more than 325 winemakers, plus plenty of French regional delicacies for a delicious lunch or dinner break.
A NOTABLE NEW BOUTIQUE



Indulge your inner shoe fetishist at Paris's chicest department store. Le Bon Marché's newL'Espace Souliers, a designer-shoe salon, is the latest mecca for the very best in women's French and European shoe design. The soaring, skylit space assembles hundreds of shoes, including pairs that are personalized and made-to-measure.
A HOT NEW HOTEL



It took the newly opened Les Bains about a nanosecond to become the hottest spot in the Marais. With a chic bar, restaurant, spa, in-hotel fashion boutique, stylish rooms, and parties every night, you hardly need to leave the premises. Ask for a room with a terrace or an outdoor shower, a first in the city.
DELICIOUS EATS



Speaking of the Marais, the wonderful new Maison Plisson is the place to go for a quick bite, take-home gourmet meal, or simply to see and be seen. A gourmet grocer on one side and a stylish café on the other, you'll find an excellent handpicked selection of the best French delicacies, from jams and chocolate to Champagne, foie gras, and fresh produce. The café, with its huge outdoor terrace, serves delicious warm dishes, cold salads, gourmet sandwiches, natural wines and juices, and desserts, all reasonably priced considering the neighborhood.

Nearby, the new gastropub Rosemary has all the best French-inflected, gourmet British comfort food. Everything is chic yet totally unpretentious, and the staff is friendly and eager to please. Order a Pimm's classic cocktail or a hand-pulled Siren craft brew to go with your house-pickled trout or beef Wellington. Great-value prix-fixe menus for lunch and dinner make this a bargain to boot.


Photo Credits (top to bottom): © M.N.H.N. - JC Domenech, Benjamin Chelly, courtesy of Centre Pompidou, Gabriel de la Chapelle, courtesy of Les Bains, © JP Baltel

Thứ Sáu, 2 tháng 10, 2015

American Airlines & US Airways Complete Merger

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And then there were four. American Airlines and US Airways formally completed their merger this morning, shrinking the competitive landscape in the US aviation market by one, leaving four major players to carry the bulk of airline passengers around the country. The new American—along with Delta, United, and Southwest—are now responsible for more than three quarters of domestic passenger travel.
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So, what does this mean for consumers? Not much, at least for the next month or so. The first few weeks of operation as a merged carrier should be relatively uneventful. The two operations are still independent and will remain so for some time yet. Projections for a fully integrated operation range between 18 to 24 months, though the accuracy for even those estimates remains to be seen. There will be many smaller integration points along the way, of course, but the merger process is not a quick one.

In the first week of January 2014, codeshare operations between the two airline halves will commence. Every flight operated by American will carry a US Airways code and vice versa. This will allow passengers more flight options and easier booking of travel across both carriers during the transition period.
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The new American expects to have reciprocity and integration of the AAdvantage and Dividend Miles loyalty programs starting in early 2014. Passengers will be able to earn and redeem miles for travel on both carriers and their partners. Customers with elite states in either program will also begin to see recognition of that status on the "other" half early next year. The US Airways division of the new American will join the oneworld global alliance in March 2014, switching over from Star Alliance, though it will keep some of its Star Alliance partners for a period of time after the formal changeover.

So, while the merger is officially complete now, the work is just beginning. There will be many changes ahead, both for employees and for customers. Fortunately, we all have a few weeks to get past the holiday season before the real transformation starts to play out.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of American Airlines

JetBlue Launches In-flight Internet

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Add JetBlue to the list of airlines offering in-flight internet connectivity. The carrier officially launched their Fly-Fi in-flight connectivity solution this week with active service on just three aircraft. They expect to expand to a fourth plane this weekend, and a total of five planes by year's end. More than 140 planes are expected to offer the Wi-Fi service by the end of 2014, and the entire JetBlue fleet will be equipped by 2015.
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Fly-Fi represents a jump in technical performance for in-flight connectivity. The system offers up to eight times the bandwidth of other systems flying today, with more than 20 megabits per aircraft. That means streaming audio and video is possible without knocking other users offline or otherwise hurting their browsing experience.

Rachel McCarthy, JetBlue's VP Inflight Experience, explained the value of the new platform during a demo flight yesterday morning. "We knew that being JetBlue we had to offer more to our customers," she said. "We're following through on that promise. We have the ability to control the pricing . . . the amount of bandwidth really excited us."
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The service has been called "At home in the sky", which, for many passengers on the demo flight, was actually an understatement. At least one passenger noted that the performance was actually better in the sky than in his living room at home.

The service has a split pricing model, with a free tier available through at least June 2014, as well as a paid premium option for streaming movies and other heavy bandwidth usage. Robin Hayes, JetBlue's Chief Commercial Officer was quite keen on the free offering, stating, "As with all of JetBlue, our standard free offering beats their paid extras."

Based on the performance shown so far they have definitely beat out the competition with the Fly-Fi product. Happy Jetting!

Photo credit: JetBlue Airways